Botanas: Cantina Eats

Around Merida & the Yucatán coast, cantinas are mandatory stops in the afternoon when the heat get to be too much! Cold beers, served as cheladas or in cubetas, accompany small plates (don’t drink on an empty stomach!) If you are lucky, you can choose your soundtrack with a rockola or video jukebox, or if you are luckier, classic cumbias will play from the kitchen where cooks will dance as they prepare your botanas.

Botanas aka mexican apertivos:

botanas at a coastal cantina
Cantina snacks! clockwise from the chips: mango, potato, cucumber, black beans, & the traditional hot dog salad!

Cantinas in Merida & the Yucatan coast offer healthier fare than found in Mexico City. Typical botanas are cooked potato or beets dressed with salt, cilantro & fresh lime juice, Sikil P’aak- a tomato & pumpkin seed purée, scrambled egg & chaya leaf, squash fried in lard, potatoes fried in a suggestion of chorizo, a paste of refried black beans, a stuffed cabbage leaf…And always hot dog salad: sliced hotdogs served cold in a dressing of ketchup, mustard or mayonnaise with onion or jalapeno.

Salbutes de carne molida, frijol con puero, papadzules, pollo en escabeche, tacos de cochinita en escabeche
Must be a Monday! Menu board from a Cantina in el Centro of Merida

Craft Beer in Merida: Hermana República

Yucateca craft beerHermana República Craft Beer

Cerveza Artesanal Yucateco

On the road to Progreso, just past Merida’s mallandia, you’ll find the most successful of Cerveza Patito’s brewpubs.

I’m constantly looking for a comfy bar for solo drinking and a cool modern brew pub vibe with a/c

I like their beer ok & I love that it’s yucateco & independiente. I think Patito tastes best when consumed quickly because it doesn’t have a lot of carbonation.

The full menu includes local specialties like castacan, carne Ahumada de Temozan, Chile Xcatic & Sikil Pak are along with trendier dishes tuna carnitas, fried octopus, croquetas de cochinita pibil. A 3 beer sampler is $70 a growler to go would set you back $140. apps are $75-155. Mains are $165-265

Merida Market Tours

Merida Market snack: Sopa de Lima and Salbutes with roasted turkey. Agua de pina con chaya and salsa verde.
Eating at the Market in Merida! An order of salbutes topped with roast turkey, pickled red onions, and avocado; sopa de lima, salsa verde, and agua de pina con chaya.

Come with me on a personalized market tour of Merida. I love the buzzing energy of the market, witnessing the tapestry of relationships built over generations of merchant-vendor exchanges, and unearthing the best local & seasonal ingredients. My trips are comfortable, tailored to what you most want to experience. If you don’t care for the sights & smells of fresh meat or live animals, we can avoid those sections. If you want to eat the absolute best of the market food, we can chow down. If you are interested in seeing a bit of living history, that is guaranteed!

birdseye view honey, candies, seasonal fruits in merida
Tables full of local goodies! Seasonal fruit, local honey, candies & peanuts!

Here are a couple of ideas:

  • stock up on colorful shopping bags
  • visit indigenous fruit & flower vendors. Purchase homemade drinking chocolate, spice blends, melipona honey, hot sauces, specialty jams, recados, and natural candies
  • get a basic overview of local handcrafts- embroidered clothing, woven hammocks & guayaberas
  • explore the bustling fruit & vegetable market
  • sample castacan- sliced, deep fried pork belly with the skin left attached
  • taste small batch coconut sorbet
  • eat indigenous foods that are relatively unchanged in hundreds of years
  • assemble a picnic lunch or ingredients for a special meal
Horchateria Rosado, an old-school specialty business in the Merida Market.
Hidden gem of the Merida Market: Horchateria Rosado