Merida Market Tours

Merida Market snack: Sopa de Lima and Salbutes with roasted turkey. Agua de pina con chaya and salsa verde.
Eating at the Market in Merida! An order of salbutes topped with roast turkey, pickled red onions, and avocado; sopa de lima, salsa verde, and agua de pina con chaya.

Come with me on a personalized market tour of Merida. I love the buzzing energy of the market, witnessing the tapestry of relationships built over generations of merchant-vendor exchanges, and unearthing the best local & seasonal ingredients. My trips are comfortable, tailored to what you most want to experience. If you don’t care for the sights & smells of fresh meat or live animals, we can avoid those sections. If you want to eat the absolute best of the market food, we can chow down. If you are interested in seeing a bit of living history, that is guaranteed!

birdseye view honey, candies, seasonal fruits in merida
Tables full of local goodies! Seasonal fruit, local honey, candies & peanuts!

Here are a couple of ideas:

  • stock up on colorful shopping bags
  • visit indigenous fruit & flower vendors. Purchase homemade drinking chocolate, spice blends, melipona honey, hot sauces, specialty jams, recados, and natural candies
  • get a basic overview of local handcrafts- embroidered clothing, woven hammocks & guayaberas
  • explore the bustling fruit & vegetable market
  • sample castacan- sliced, deep fried pork belly with the skin left attached
  • taste small batch coconut sorbet
  • eat indigenous foods that are relatively unchanged in hundreds of years
  • assemble a picnic lunch or ingredients for a special meal
Horchateria Rosado, an old-school specialty business in the Merida Market.
Hidden gem of the Merida Market: Horchateria Rosado

vegi tacos: the easiest, most delicious way to bring the mexican market into your kitchen

Vegi for vegetarian, vegi for vegetables…tacos for one or two…a little veg, a little bean, some cheese, avocado would be awesome…any food is better in taco form. As long as the tortillas are decent, I could never tire of my tacos. Like many, my home cooking is mostly plant-based.

I stock my fridge with homemade salsa, jalapeños y carrots en escabeche, pickled red onions, queso fresco, and the freshest tortillas I can find. Farm fresh eggs, any cheese, cooked potatoes, sautéed greens, a bit of vegetable left over from dinner, warmed up on the comal and served in a warm corn or flour tortilla transports you to your favorite mexican kitchen.

vegi tacos
vegi tacos de ayer: refritos con cebolla roja, queso panela, y pico de gallo

my basic bean cooking

pickled red onions

my local tortilleria

Making Mole from the Market

mole paste with tasting spoons
Let’s talk about making mole from paste from the market. What’s your technique?

I love taking advantage of all the small production salsas moles offered in Mexican markets. You can usually find mole pastes- solids sold in ceramic cazuelas or plastic buckets- or mole en polvo (powdered). Ask for 1/2 kilo, and it will be given to you in a plastic bag- sometimes double bagged. 1/2 kilo is usually a good amount for 4-6 people. I LOVE leftover mole to serve over rice or as enchiladas!

Be careful where you store it. I have had oily Mole de Xico stain the contents of my suitcase through 3 layers of bags! Now I store my plastic bags of mole in a glass jar or plastic tub. A friend recently sent me a kilo of mole from Puebla VACUUM SEALED. That is just above & beyond & I love it!

Mole en Polvo generally needs to be fried in lard or oil (try coconut oil) and then reconstituted with chicken broth. Mole en Pasta doesn’t need to be fried, you can just start adding broth & stirring it until you have dissolved all the chunks. The sauce will thicken when it starts cooling.

The Humble Brilliance of Italy’s Moka Coffee Pot – Gastro Obscura

TRUTH! Bialetti’s Moka Express is redeemed by coffee snobs!

Coffee people have softened their stance, and recognized the moka pot for what it is: an entirely different branch of the coffee machine tree, a very old, very clever, and very economical way to make coffee.

Source: The Humble Brilliance of Italy’s Moka Coffee Pot – Gastro Obscura

I travel with my brilliant espresso pot. Coffee culture has grown muchisimo in Mexico, but it’s still easier to find a stove than an espresso every morning!

Enjoying local coffee beans wherever I go
My coffee pairs well with living in a beach hut, reading pulp fiction.

A Cheap Lunch in Playa del Carmen

The fine art of Mexican typography & sign painting #rotulos

Playa del Carmen is one of the fastest-growing cities in Latin America. It’s absolutely bursting at the seams & it’s not pretty. Rampant over-tourism, unchecked development plus the latest round of violence & sargassum make it one of the last go-to places on any Mexico Lover’s list. However, you may end up there, waiting for the ferry to Cozumel, celebrating your cousin’s bachelorette or someone’s birthday. So I’ll share my cheap & decent lunch recommendation with you: Asadeo El Pollo

That’s the 1/4 chicken with corn tortillas, arroz, cebollas curtidas, y salsa habanero

Onion, Tanned is an awkward translation for one of the most delicious condiments found on tables in Yucatan peninsula, Cebollas Curtidas. I make them all the time. chopping & slicing the onion as I like, then covering them with naranja agria, lime juice, or any fruit vinegar. Add salt & pepper, and some sliced habanero if you like it hot. These onions brighten up any dish, and help cut the fat in lechon, castacan or cochinita tacos & tortas.

I am a hug fan of rotulos- the mexican art of sign-painting. How lovely are these pale blue frames?

Asadero el Pollo (gmaps)

20 Avenida Norte 652, Centro, 77710 Playa del Carmen, Q.R.

Open from 10am to 6pm 7 days a week

Old School Cantina Crawl in Merida

Join us for a cantina crawl of the old-school cantinas of Merida! Find some new favorites!

Merida has a treasure trove of classic cantinas featuring local drinking culture & flavors. Residents & visitors find that seeking the shelter of a cantina during the heat of the day makes the heat tolerable. A typical cantina offers plentiful cold beer, basic mixed drinks, and on-alcoholic limeades & soft drinks- each round is accompanied by botanas, snacks & small plates. Botanas are a great way to sample local dishes!

MANY cantinas in Merida still cater exclusively to men. Some of these establishments are known as bares de ficheras, referring to the fiches (tokens) collected by the women in exchange for a dance. Women present are employed by the cantina to encourage men to keep drinking.


What our cantina crawl looks like:

Our customizable cantina tour can be combined with markets, street food, or shopping. We recommend visiting 3 or 4 cantinas in 3 or 4 hours to get a sense of the experience. Bring coins for the rockola!

MERIDA OLD-SCHOOL CANTINA CRAWL (4 hours)

We’ll pick you up at high noon & visit 3 cantinas in central Merida for 2 beers & accompanying botanas!

Hola!

Welcome to Lindsay’s Tips, my Mexican food & travel guide! Lindsay’s Tips shares my enthusiasm for eating, drinking, cooking, and traveling in Mexico. I am just getting started in putting together my site, but I have collected data and built my perspective over the decades. The blog has four categories: Mexican food, Cooking in Mexico, Mexico Travel, and Drinking in Mexico. My bookshelf collects and shares news articles related to these topics.

it's me Lindsay

I hope my site guides you to enjoy Mexico to the fullest. Drop me a line if you would like help creating a custom experience! Saludos!