Lonchería de 3 Compadres in Chicxulub Puerto
Adjusting to living in a pueblito, things aren’t what they seem! In the Yucatan, villages can appear abandoned during the heat of the day. Businesses may appear rundown. Stores look empty. It might take you some time to get into the local groove. Asking locals for their recommendations is your best bet. Don’t bother with google maps.
For example, Chicxulub Puerto, a fishing village on the coast of about 13,000 residents spread along a barrier island between the Gulf Coast & a brackish swamp, is full of vacation homes and business that only open during the high seasons.
I found the local market on my first day and ate a a couple of the loncherías in the plaza. In this part of the world, these eateries stick to masa based antojitos: panuchos, salbutes, and empanadas. They may also we offer soup & tortas. I tried maybe 3 of the morning places and they were all kind eh. Greasy masa, canned tomato sauce, canned beans, sloppy salsas, dirty tables…no gracias! Better to enjoy the local bounty of my own kitchen.
One Sunday, I asked the plant vendor where was good to eat. He gestured to Los Tres Comadres, “Alli se come rico.”
Dios Mío! The ladies running this kitchen take pride in their antojitos. One was grating cabbage for the ensalada de repollo, occasionally stirring the tomato sauce on the stovetop. The other managed the masa & the frying pan. Another handled orders & payment, also running hot panuchos, salbutes & empanadas to the outdoor tables. I
The masa, or tortilla dough, for my antojitos was tender & light, not greasy-even through it had just been removed from bubbling oil. Both the relleno negro atop my salbute & the ground pork filling of the empanada were complex & flavorful. The traditional accompaniments were bright & fresh, totally complementing the fried masa with ensalada de repollo, made from grated cabbage, grated tomato, and tiny slivers of red onion dressed in lime juice; a mild roasted tomato sauce; and a gorgeously picante roasted habanero salsa.
